Day 1 — Sighnaghi & Bodbe
Two-hour drive out from Tbilisi. Check in on the ridge, walk the city walls, sunset from the ramparts. Bodbe monastery in the morning, then two family cellars on the way out of town.
Day 2 — Telavi & Alaverdi
Cross the Gombori pass to Telavi. Alaverdi cathedral, then Pheasant's Tears or Schuchmann for a structured tasting. Lunch at Shumi. Back to Tbilisi by 19:00.
What to actually order
Saperavi (red, tannic) and Rkatsiteli (white, amber-aged qvevri) are the signatures. Skip the sweet semi-styles unless that's your thing — they're the export leftover, not what locals drink.
Avoid the bus tours
Group tours stop at three commercial cellars in a row and rush you through. A private driver lets you slow down, book one small family cellar, and eat lunch where you actually want to.